Hi JT,
Yes installing the hubs was easy. Very simple and straightforward. I assume that you have the Bentley manual? Replacing the U-joints on the original axles not so much but this was the 2nd time I've done the U-joints in the 30 years I've had the car so no complaints. I installed Keen-serts in the aluminum trailing arms years ago. I've seen all your pics and progress on your car and you've come a long way...no giving up now! It took me 5 years to do the frame off on my '72...just keep plugging along...it'l be well worth it when it's done! I never would have attempted to paint my own car because I don't have the skills or the patience, so good for you-you've done a great job as shown by your pics!
It is running now. It had been stored in a warehouse for 25+ years, so I had to replace all hydraulics, have the carbs rebuilt, and clean fuel system completely.
My engine is stock and while I can't say that it really increased the power, the engine does seem more responsive. I removed the fan and used Rick's fan eliminator kit as well. I feel that the combination of these two changes have made the car quicker and much more smooth. I did replace the stock 4-speed with the HVDA Toyota 5-Speed. These three things have made the car so much fun to drive and significantly more reliable, which is what I was aiming for.
The rocker panel rust was covered by the black gravel guard and was not noticeable until it was stripped for paint. The other two were small pinholes that I covered up with white caulk that first Summer! Very professional; not But.... I was more interested in driving the car I had longed for all those years to worry about a few pinholes. The right front fender was removed, repaired with a patch Mig'd in and painted with green aircraft primer prior to the gray primer coat, then water sanded and sprayed white. I have a couple pics of the fender repair somewhere.
The frame was a pleasant surprise. Super solid in the trailing arm ladder extensions and all throughout. I know because I had everything out of there and sanded it down and painted it. The front and rear diff mounts needed work because as you probably know, the upper mounting sheet metal is very thin and prone to failure through either rust or in my case, metal fatigue. All repaired now with boxed mounts and access panels cut into the rear parcel shelf area to expose the tops of the mounting bolts and fab repair patches. See pic of another car with identical method I will post in my pics area. Mine was done neater and Mig'd back in and covered with black, sound deadening undercoat. I got lucky and got a very solid but very tired car from Drake's that just needed money thrown at the mechanicals. You can see from the engine pics that a lot of time was spent in there too. It took me all Winter and most of Spring of 2012 to get it to the "after" pics shown in the gallery. Lot of work but worth it!
Cheers,
Bob
Cheers,
Bob
I almost bought the ones from BC that you describe. I ended up with the VTO which look almost identical. Wonder if they are from the same factory Here is a link to my wheels ...
That bumper looks amazing. My old TR7 back in 1981 which was a 78 model had bumpers that were extremely faded and gray looking. Living in Florida at the time did not help.
Only had the transmission attached. No way was I going to scratch that paint with the exhaust manifold attached. The tranny attached was easy with the adjustable tilt bar I had on the engine stand. I had the trans out twice more after that pic to fix the sticky clutch problem. Pulled it from inside the cabin. Nasty job as you probably know. It's just that the damn bolts are so hard to get at. If it ever comes out again it will be for either a Toyota 5-speed or a Ford 289 or 302 with a Ford T5 but I really like the 6. It's essentially stock , has lots of power (about 130-135 HP), sounds great and doesn't collect speeding tickets like a V-8 would.
Konig Rewinds - Color called Graphite. Running 205/70 - 15 Yokohama AVID TRZ's
Recommend buying 16" Konigs so you don't have to use 1/4 " spacers on the front wheels. I already had the unused Yokes in 15" that I only paid $67.00 USD for and now it looks like the 16's are about $400 each so I went with the 15" Konigs, which cost me about $1000 to the door. The wheels stick out a tiny bit but only the purists really complain.
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Yes installing the hubs was easy. Very simple and straightforward. I assume that you have the Bentley manual? Replacing the U-joints on the original axles not so much but this was the 2nd time I've done the U-joints in the 30 years I've had the car so no complaints. I installed Keen-serts in the aluminum trailing arms years ago. I've seen all your pics and progress on your car and you've come a long way...no giving up now! It took me 5 years to do the frame off on my '72...just keep plugging along...it'l be well worth it when it's done! I never would have attempted to paint my own car because I don't have the skills or the patience, so good for you-you've done a great job as shown by your pics!
The frame was a pleasant surprise. Super solid in the trailing arm ladder extensions and all throughout. I know because I had everything out of there and sanded it down and painted it. The front and rear diff mounts needed work because as you probably know, the upper mounting sheet metal is very thin and prone to failure through either rust or in my case, metal fatigue. All repaired now with boxed mounts and access panels cut into the rear parcel shelf area to expose the tops of the mounting bolts and fab repair patches. See pic of another car with identical method I will post in my pics area. Mine was done neater and Mig'd back in and covered with black, sound deadening undercoat. I got lucky and got a very solid but very tired car from Drake's that just needed money thrown at the mechanicals. You can see from the engine pics that a lot of time was spent in there too. It took me all Winter and most of Spring of 2012 to get it to the "after" pics shown in the gallery. Lot of work but worth it!
Cheers,
Bob
Cheers,
Bob
https://www.triumphdrivers.com/photo/50757
Neil
Thanks for sharing.
That bumper looks amazing. My old TR7 back in 1981 which was a 78 model had bumpers that were extremely faded and gray looking. Living in Florida at the time did not help.
Recommend buying 16" Konigs so you don't have to use 1/4 " spacers on the front wheels. I already had the unused Yokes in 15" that I only paid $67.00 USD for and now it looks like the 16's are about $400 each so I went with the 15" Konigs, which cost me about $1000 to the door. The wheels stick out a tiny bit but only the purists really complain.